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Milan is the center of luxury fabrics, refined tailoring, and all things elegant. Even during this wild period, when in-person events are mostly on pause, designers made sure to get this point across, utilizing films, livestreams, look books, and more. Ahead, we curate all the best looks from the fall 2021 season.
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Prada
The latest installment from the partnership made in fashion dreams—Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons—is inspired by change, transformation, and opening possibilities. Those ideas live in jacquard knits, statement faux furs, menswear inspired suiting, bold colored coats, and feminine skirt suits. The looks are only seemingly simple—with bold hits of color like cobalt and orange, against black, brown, and white. Models walked on an interior landscape created out of vibrant faux fur and marble by Rem Koolhaas and AMO. All of it will be eventually donated to Meta, a circular economy project based in Milan, "which offers
sustainable solutions to waste disposal within ephemeral events by collecting and recovering materials for selling and rentals." This is the future—clothes to collect and not discard, an awareness around waste, a venture into creativity with thought for what happens next.
-Kerry Pieri
Max Mara
English mainstays meet a chic Italiana woman for Max Mara's Fall collection. Think: tartans and cashmere, headscarves and Fair Isle knits. Who doesn't want to be her? The creator of the famed teddy coat (they're in here too, don't worry) is celebrating 70 years since Achille Maramotti founded the storied brand as a shopping destination for the wives of local notaries and doctors. Luckily, now the ladies who frequent Max Mara's boutiques are the professionals themselves—all the better for investing in all those camel coats. -Kerry Pieri
Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli is no stranger to the luxe leisure trend that has swept the fashion industry. To wit: The Italian designer built his brand on tailored double-faced cashmere tops and cardigans, along with mohair sweaters and coats. He has also consistently offered tailored drawstring trousers. Where others are now just presenting pieces inspired by pandemic life, Cucinelli was ahead of the curve. As a result, his fall 2021 collection—comprised of his stalwarts in subtle shades of brown, beige, cream, and gay—were miles ahead of the simple ribbed knit dresses that sprung up in most presentations this season. Indeed, the proportions of his pieces was a masterclass, the mixing textures was sublime, and the addition of crochet styles were a fun surprise.—Barry Samaha
Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli
No. 21
For No. 21’s fall 2021 collection, designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua presented looks that each highlighted a sensual part of the body: A cropped Bar jacket with a fringe skirt accented the legs, an ocelot-printed brassiere and matching pencil skirt showcased the midriff, and fitted strapless lace dress accentuated the arms and shoulders. The lineup was a celebration of the subtle sex appeal; there was nothing flagrant about the display of flesh. His inspiration was, after all, Carlo Mollino, the famed photographer, architect, and product designer whose work often reflected the curves of the female form.—Barry Samaha
Alberta Ferretti
All things comfy and cozy reached new heights in Alberta Ferretti’s fall 2021 collection. The Italian designer, via video of a runway show, presented a lineup of cold-weather staples—blanket capes, shearling coats, cashmere sweaters, turtlenecks, and suede trousers—that, though roomy in cut, were tailored with precision and featured hand-stitched details. Ferretti started with black and charcoal-gray hues, gradually adding flesh tones, pine green, mustard yellow, robin's-egg blue, and shimmering gold. The overall vibe was relaxed minimalism with a dose of glamour. And though known primarily for being a red-carpet favorite, her recent offering proved that she is equally adept in creating luxe, no-fuss daywear. —Barry Samaha
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
Fendi
Kim Jones is the designer of the moment, and his latest livestreamed show at Milan Fashion Week proved once again that Fendi made the perfect choice in naming him artistic director of womenswear. For the fall 2021 season, a swift follow-up to his debut couture show in January, the British designer presented a collection that paid homage to the Roman label’s storied history, while also adding his signature sleek, streetwise edge. There was a slew of fitted fur coats with sizable shawl lapels and floor-grazing fringe at the hem, cinched with tiny belts; flowing V-neck silk dresses; knit crop tops with matching pencil skirts; and tie-front satin blouses with paperbag-waist trousers. The color palette stuck to neutral tones: cream, tan, blush pink, grape, and black. “I’m taking the amazing, strong women who I both know and work with, and listening to their needs,” Jones said. “There’s a usefulness to the collection, explored in a chic, timeless way.” —Barry Samaha
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