DESPITE ALL the radical trends Miuccia Prada pioneers on her runways, the Miu Miu and Prada designer is a creature of habit where her own wardrobe is concerned. Whether photographed at an industry event or while taking a quick, humble bow at the end of her fashion shows, Mrs. Prada can often be seen in a consistent yet not-at-all boring uniform of a sweater and full skirt.
What makes the look interesting is Mrs. Prada’s flair for oddness, which echoes the avant-garde awkwardness seen in so many of her collections. She’ll add an “ugly” color (like mustard) or a seemingly-off flashy accessory, like a statement necklace or earrings. Maybe she’ll mix in men’s socks with sandals. Whatever she chooses to enhance the outfit, it’s something that makes you look again. Author Judith Thurman, who wrote the introduction to 2012’s “Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations,” the book that accompanied that year’s Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition of the same name, insists these sartorial twists are key. “Without that act of pulling it together and adding something unexpected, it doesn’t work. It would be expensive Ann Taylor.”
Like her seasonal propositions, Mrs. Prada’s personal uniform has garnered a robust following among fashion fans, many of whom try to emulate her style. It’s a look that feels particularly relevant now, as so many women are paring back their wardrobes to include mostly quality, fail-safe pieces they can wear for years to come. Jenny Walton has worshiped at the altar of Mrs. Prada since college. “She is my north star,” said the 31-year-old fashion illustrator and jewelry designer. “Her sense of style will never lead you astray.” Based in New York, Ms. Walton often dons a voluminous skirt and simple sweater for her daily exploits which she documents on Instagram. “It’s my no-brainer,” she said of Mrs. Prada’s signature look. “It’s the perfect mix of chic, confident and comfortable.” Ms. Walton often assembles her Mrs. Prada-inspired looks together with separates from Uniqlo and J.Crew or authentic Prada pieces scored on resale sites like the RealReal and Poshmark.
Mrs. Prada’s infatuation with uniforms can be traced back to the military-grade nylon bags she introduced after she took over her family’s Italian handbag and luggage business in 1978. Now 72, she wore a military gray cotton dress to her wedding in 1987, and since adding ready-to-wear to Prada’s oeuvre in 1988, she has often included references to schoolgirl uniforms and film noir heroines through transgressively saccharine knits and skirts both micro and voluminous.
Mrs. Prada’s style is a product of her history, which includes a privileged upbringing in Milan, a Ph.D. in political science and a stint as a member of the Italian Communist Party. “There is a bohemian edge [to her] that is an ironic juxtaposition with all of the conventions of her very decorous, bourgeois, Milanese girlhood,” said Ms. Thurman, the writer. So, while “her style is extremely ladylike,” Mrs. Prada’s embrace of ladylike silhouettes is more irreverent than earnest.
Nicoletta Santoro, an Italian stylist based in Milan, noted that Mrs. Prada’s signature silhouette “is from classic Italian images, art and cinematography.” Over 30 years ago, when Ms. Santoro left Milan to work in Paris, New York and Beijing, she adopted a Prada-inspired uniform of full skirts and high heels because it connected her to her roots. The versatile look can take her most anywhere. “I wear my uniform to the supermarket,” she declared. But she also recently donned a full Prada nylon skirt (she buys a new one every season) with a white shirt from Uniqlo to have tea with a friend.
Attempting to channel Mrs. Prada’s wardrobe forces you to define your own style. “For me, she represents personal style and the pleasure of dressing for yourself,” said Guillaume Lavoie, who runs the Instagram account What Miuccia Wore, which is dedicated to Mrs. Prada’s outfits. “How she wears her clothing is autobiographical.” Studying her presents a challenge to dissect your own fashion histories and tastes. Maybe it’s adopting your grandmother’s coat or breaking apart a 1950s suit found at a flea market. Mrs. Prada is the teacher, and her wardrobe is our text book.
Ms. Thurman has derived many lessons from Mrs. Prada’s aesthetic: “Avoid clichés about matching. Avoid clichés about age. Generally, bring as much personality as you can” to your style. Most important, do it all with a sense of insouciance, she advised. The confidence ingrained in not taking it all too seriously acts as armor, allowing one to experiment more freely. “Prada is synonymous with female authority,” Ms. Thurman said. “It’s not ‘The Devil Wears Chanel.’”
The Wall Street Journal is not compensated by retailers listed in its articles as outlets for products. Listed retailers frequently are not the sole retail outlets.
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