It feels so good to have fashion week back. Over in Copenhagen, this energy is no different, as the city eagerly awaits the return of the catwalk, street style and new inspiring collections from our favourite brands.
Copenhagen Fashion Week boasts plenty of both established and up-and-coming names who will be presenting their latest designs on the international stage, but what really sets the Nordic show schedule apart from all the other unmissable fashion weeks, is its unshakeable focus on sustainability. The organisers strive towards making substantial changes to the way the event is executed, and work to inspire and encourage the industry to take steps towards becoming more sustainable.
Of course, the three-day-long event is also a great opportunity to discover new and emerging brands you likely didn't have on your radar before. For spring/summer 2022, we got to know four emerging designers fresh from Copenhagen's schedule for this season, including brother and sister duo Simon and Nanna Wick of (di)vision; Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard; Frederik Berner Kühl of Berner Kühl; and Amalie Røge Hove Geertsen of A Roege Hove.
Here's what you need to know:
(di)vision
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How would you describe your brand’s aesthetic?
Simon Wick: "Our brand aesthetic is a mix of different feelings. The most obvious is our love for split or divided designs, as our name (di)vision might suggest. The (di) in our name comes from combining two different objects into one. Our first ever product was a split bomber jacket made from two different military surplus jackets put together with a back zipper.
"Now, we do a lot more than the split design, but still with the same technique as when we made our first jacket from military surplus jackets. We work with the ideology of creating from what already is - deadstock fabrics and vintage and surplus clothing. We love working with items with a history that can be seen, such as worn-out workwear clothes or military parachutes. We create clothes we want to wear ourselves, and we have a pretty mixed taste. Sometimes it’s y2k [the fashion trends and styles of the early 2000s] skate-inspired and sometimes it's more Rick Owens. We are constantly developing."
How did your brand come to be?
SW: "We started back in 2018 when Nanna and I wanted to start a brand working with up-cycling. I was so inspired by other brands working with up-cycling, such as Greg Lauren, but I couldn’t afford it. I had no idea how to make clothes or how to sew, but luckily Nanna knew all that after going to design school. We decided to give it a shot together and start (di)vision. We started out by making the split bombers and they were a big success for us. After that, we started doing a lot of one-of-one products all locally made in our small studio.
Courtesy of (di)vision
"Fast-forwarding to today, not much has changed, to be honest. It’s still Nanna and I who run the business, but the family has expanded. We still have our local production, just with some better machines. We still do our one-of-a-kind products, just under the line (di)construct by (di)vision. And we still work with materials that have lived a previous life, just on a bigger scale."
What does your brand stand for?
SW: "Our mantra is 'creating from what already is'. Almost everything we make needs to be surplus in some way. We want to create a greener world, but we are self-aware enough to know that we work in an industry that is one of the biggest sinners when it comes to pollution. That’s the reason we try to use the materials we already have."
Courtesy of (di)vision
What’s inspired you for your spring/summer '22 collection?
SW: "The spring/summer '22 collection takes inspiration from lounge silhouettes mixed with a workwear aesthetic. We always think of, 'when you have to build a house at nine but have a cocktail party at ten'.
"There’s also a lot of comfy wear. We have been living in tracksuits and sweats the past year, so wanted to pay homage to that by creating some easy-to-wear and comfortable pieces, along with some pieces contrasting that. From a sustainable mindset, the collection is created exclusively with handpicked deadstock fabrics bought and created in the small city Prato just outside Florence in Italy."
What do you love most about Copenhagen Fashion Week?
SW: "The energy. Copenhagen isn’t so big, which means everyone knows everyone. It’s like a three-day party with your all best friends."
Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard
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How would you describe your brand’s aesthetic?
LLB: "I'm still playing around, so for me the aesthetic of the brand is not fixed but somehow feels very coherent. I'm not trying to fit in and at the moment I play a lot with dark romanticism and draped or disrupted silhouettes in both knit and non-woven. I shoot and style my Instagram images myself so there's an honest element to the aesthetic which I like."
How did your brand come to be?
LLB: "It was never my plan or intention to have a brand, but the clothing I made kept evolving and so did I. I have always been making clothing; even before going to fashion school. During my education, I rented a small atelier and continued to work there after school hours, during school holidays, during all my internships, and then after graduation when job interviews were on the agenda.
"Suddenly people started to talk about my clothing as being a brand and now I am here in Paris with a full team, having done the first runway collection and already working on the next."
Courtesy of Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard
What does your brand stand for?
LLB: "Courage, integrity, equality, and excellent craftsmanship."
What’s inspired you for your spring/summer 22 collection?
LLB: "This is my first runway collection, so for me, it was a chance to express myself across a wider range of materials and not only knitwear. It shows what I'm capable of at this point in my career as a kind of a flirtatious love letter to the industry; what does knitwear look like when it comes from me. How do I drape? What does that outcome look like? Showing some volume, some tailored garments, and deconstruction. How do we approach this desired silhouette with this kind of fabric or yarn?
"The core inspiration has been that nothing is taken for granted so you better give it your all, then add another 10 per cent and have fun while doing it. I ended up finishing the collection alone with my then intern Alice Grosjean during Covid lockdown, and despite working around the clock we agreed that every day had actually been a good day."
Courtesy of Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard
What do you love most about Copenhagen Fashion Week?
LLB: "I love the opportunity to travel to my home city. Living in Paris, you get to appreciate small things, like the quality of tap water, the accessibility of cheap organic food, and the ocean to swim in. Unfortunately, my bike is here in Paris but in Copenhagen, you can easily walk everywhere."
Berner Kühl
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How would you describe your brand’s aesthetic?
Frederik Berner Kühl: "Coming from a sports background, there's definitely a utilitarian aspect to my garments. Mainly in the performance, in the fabrications we do, but also in details, trimmings. When I was in school we had an amazing library and I found old original National Geographic magazines from the 1950s, looking at reportages from when Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary climbed Mount Everest for the first time.
"Their uniforms and gear were incredibly inspiring. This along with books on uniforms, both military, and workwear, came to influence me a lot in my work. I also attended a classic Italian fashion school, so traditional menswear in terms of tailoring became my other focal point. I try to find a balance between these two reference points, appreciating the contrast between the two, trying to combine them into my own look."
How did your brand come to be?
FBK: "Having worked for other brands for a number of years, I had to find a new way in fashion, in order to keep it interesting and make it more than just about clothes. I went to Polimoda to do my master’s degree, and along the way, I realised that if I were to continue loving what I did, I had to do it for myself. We have so many opportunities and innovations, trying to clean up our business, and I want to support and utilise all of these. When I came back to Copenhagen, Berner Kühl was founded."
Courtesy of Berner Kühl
What does your brand stand for?
FBK: "I think we are ready to find a new way after seeing how fashion developed in the last year or so. I won’t accept the fact that we have to work at a frantic pace, spitting out one collection after the other. I need to appreciate every product that I put out there, and enforce the tradition of craft that is paramount if you want to make quality products. There was a time when we waited patiently for six months, craving to see what was coming next. Now we can barely wait for next week.
"Nostalgia is not necessarily a good thing, but as a driver to move forward into new unexplored territories, it becomes very strong. Not to rediscover what was, but to discover new ways of doing things. Innovation is what is going to save our business because brands will always want to grow and earn more. So, to support all the people in our industry trying to create better ways of producing is crucial to us as a brand. We need to try and educate the customer on good product, so they realise why they should buy one thing over another. It's happening as we speak, and I feel quite hopeful about the future."
What’s inspired you for your spring/summer '22 collection?
FBK: "Having been confined for a long time during the pandemic, I came to think about our shelters, our homes, and how dressing becomes a shelter, too. At the end of the 1960s and beginning of the 1970s we had an Italian art movement, Arte Povera, known for working with materials at hand, and I was inspired by their mindset and approach to their work. Especially Mario Merz - his igloos became a focal point for the build-up of the collection. Three concepts were hugely important to Merz: the relationship between humans and nature, how humans act in contemporary life, and lastly the idea of shelter, exemplified in his many igloo constructions. All of these things resurfaced when we were confronted with Covid-19. Wanting to embrace nature again, and rethinking how we act in a contemporary world.
Courtesy of Berner Kühl
"Clothing as a shelter, practically as a working uniform, exemplified in both the workwear and suiting evident in the collection, became a big focus when creating spring/summer - but also the approach to dressing in 2022. We choose what to wear every day, and as such, we create a shelter against our surroundings. With the amount of impulse we get all the time, this shelter has become increasingly important - either as protection or as a way to reveal to the world who we really are. What's underneath is deeply personal, thus up to the individual to decide the level of transparency."
What do you love most about Copenhagen Fashion Week?
FBK: "It's a way for our industry to come together and exchange ideas, and showcase what we have been working on. I think the new generation of designers are more willing to share, and thus we all become more transparent, which I think is hugely important going forward. Of course for Berner Kühl as a brand, this coming fashion week will be even more exciting as we are doing our first show ever. Meeting people again will be a joy, and we are looking so much forward to it."
A Roege Hove
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How would you describe your brand’s aesthetic?
Amalie Røge Hove Geertsen: "Our aesthetic at A Roege Hove is simple, yet powerful. It's all about discovering the smaller details and being curious about shapes and textiles."
How did your brand come to be?
ARHG: "As a previous knitwear designer for other brands, I found myself longing to fulfil my own vision for knitwear. I felt like I had so many ideas and ambitions for how it could be done in terms of appearance, production and expectations for knit in general - so it made so much sense for me to explore that further, and now here I am."
What does your brand stand for?
ARHG: "We truly value good craft and taking the time to improve. If people would become more interested in knitwear and curious about how our clothes are made that would make me very happy."
Courtesy of A Roege Hove
What’s inspired you for your spring/summer '22 collection?
ARHG: "Spring/summer '22 is very much a continuation of our knitwear DNA, but put in a more bold scenery. I have tried to push the way we combine and show our styles, and I'm extremely excited to show our sixth collection during Copenhagen Fashion Week this season."
What do you love most about Copenhagen Fashion Week?
ARHG: "Copenhagen Fashion Week is a fantastic scene for emerging brands and I feel like we are really offered a great chance to do our first show but in the way, we see fit. The pace and more local feel we get during CFW is important to me and with a schedule like this, I’m in great company."
Courtesy of A Roege Hove
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